Tom's TARDIS

TOM’S TARDIS

This locker was discarded to the curb when someone three blocks away moved. It was cleaned and painted by me to abstractly resemble a Police call box. Doctor who used the façade of a police call box to mask the outside of his TARDIS. “Dr. Who” was a time lord of infinite incarnations in the science fiction series “Dr. Who” He was a remnant of an ancient race of time lords and episode to episode he was tossed through time and space in this craft (TARDIS) to solve problems that occurred in the fabric of time.

“TARDIS” stands for Time And Relative Distance In Space, and acronym, and is what he named his interdimensional spacecraft.

Incidentally, TARDIS is somewhat a neophyte homonym to “Tart Us” and that is exactly what I keep in it, spices that TartUs foods, and meals, as well as other forms of savory spices not as tart.

Abstract thinking question? Is the TARDIS the spice of life? Variety is said to be the spice of life. I know how to TARTUS by how to TARDIS works I could not really say for sure, at least not in this same essay. That essay would be of another dimension of word processing document and written another time, and published throughout time or never at all, the difference of being I am not sure of at the moment.

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

These are the instructions I wrote for myself before I painted it. It is good to write instructions for yourself before you do something, even if you don't follow them exactly.

TOM’S TARDIS PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS

1. Make a cardboard stencil and use darker paint and small brush to paint box panels 4 strokes per panel

2. Three horizontal bars on top. third one down should be BLACK

3. Mask around top window and use gray paint in peanut jar and sponge on stencil for windows

4. Also sponge a place for a plackard slightly smaller than panel for second one down in front. Should be gray

5. Just paint bottom of the thing below the door darkish blue

6. Mix up a similar color only a little more darkish blue and pretty much sponge the whole thing

7. Stencil spray TOM’S TARDIS on top with white spray paint

I don't think I used any spray cans. Don't like to, the last time I used a spray can was when I painted the Vinyl tile in the bathroom white with Rustoleum plastic primer, but that is a different story.

The top light is a mason jar painted with stripes and held in place via a round magnet that holds the mason jars lid to the metal top of the locker.

Ineresting enough I saw one of these full size call boxes on 05/06/2010, it is the in the lower picture at the following site and is red: http://wisconsinnaturepictures.blogspot.com/2010/05/todays-picture.html

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

The Pool Ball Clock

One more simple and easy clock. This clock was made by tracing out the small profile of a roll of electrical tape over colored duct tape with a pen and cutting the pieces off with a whetted scissors.

I liked this one so much that I made one just like it for the workshop but put a little glow tape on it in addition to or over the cue balls.

The clock face came from Harbor Freight Tools website and cost about $5

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Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

Tribute To The 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass

Tribute to the 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

This artistic represents the 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with it 350 cubic inch cylinder displacement 238 horsepower road conquering engine. They are a thing of the past now, collectors’ items. It is unrealistic for me and most people to have a car collection of original scale. But maybe we can keep things like this. Mementos and keepsakes preserve our memory of the past. Sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worst?

What you see in this representation are the hood louvers from our families 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme mounted to a sand textured black gloss background, meant to resemble the pavement or tar of a road or racetrack. I kept the extra set of Louvers; I had on hand, when I sold the car in 1991 for $350.00. That’s $1 a horse I got, for the twenty year old car. The Yellow paint on the outer edge the lines of a road. The Louvers centered in this, abstractly remind me of wings, a further reverence to an original American era. And indeed I believe there was a war plane named Cutlass, but I’ll leave that story to those patient enough for internet research.

I have many stories regarding this car, like how I let a trainee at the service station I worked for drive it to get us lunch and he couldn’t understand how it took off so fast from the stoplight. I had made some secret modifications. As you get older your more concerned with mileage per gallon.

The 1971 Cutlass lives on.

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

More Clocks

These pictures are part of the Clock Mechanisms Four Dollars Page

Clock Mechanisms Four Dollars

Clock Mechanisms Four Dollars

Clock mechanism kits cost about three or four dollars from American Science and Surplus. They usually take one AA battery and when you combine them with a saw blade and paint you have the start of a nice project. The mechanism attaches to the blade through the whole in the center of it with one low profile brass nut.

The blades are cleaned scuffed, prepped with vinegar, primed, painted and clear sealed.

The yellow, black, green and white one abstractly represents the hot Wheels Racing cars of our youth.

This clock has glow paint made by Rustoleum. You can find it in a hardware store.

This Iron Cross 10” diameter blade clock has glow paint in the center and blue on the edges and the time is readily seen for awhile when the lights are turned out.

This one is about 5” in diameter and the numbers were meant to be created like a Salvador Dali font. To give accolades to his shifting and melting view of time picture. What did he mean by this? Is a matter of enlightenment.

This one was made from a recycled aluminum frying pan. I drilled this one with deming bits to abstractly resemble an expensive milled alloy automotive sport wheel rim.

The first one of these I made from the bottom of a metal coffee can (not shown). I cut it with Wiss aviation metal snips to resemble a disk and scuffed the plating off so that I could oxidize it to brown in some spots. I then sealed this in with clear coat to preserve the finish for life. I then gave the thing that resembled a land mine to a neighbor; I wasn’t the fondest of, who was moving away. Later he told me one of his sons really likes it, put it in his room, and stares at it forever. It is good to give gifts that people like.

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

Brief Case Secure

Brief Case Secure

The laptop briefcase came from Geeks.com. I think I paid about 15 dollars on sale. A hard shell like this is the only thing I would use to protect my intellectual property from damage. The problem was that I had so much intellectual property that the original single latch in the center would burst open. I usually pack it more than full. The original solution was to use military strapping and place joining fittings that snap together to form a safety belt the encompassed the entirety of both “Shells” of the case and hold it together when the latch burst. I always knew that this was only a temporary measure.

So when I had time recently I went down to my treasure chest of old odds and ends parts under my workbench and rummaged and rootled through until I found these two complete sets of window latches, that I salvaged when we had replacement energy efficient windows installed on our house. I cleaned these by using the lighter oil viscosity cleaning method, in this case vegetable oil as a degreaser. And polished them up. They actually have their patent number stamped on the bottom of them. Intrigued I did a quick patent search and found out that patent number 2151219 was issued in 1939 to inventor Sern, Madsen. The current assignee for it is Curtis Companies.

Here are the scatological instructions: Align latches to where will go, mark for holes, center punch to form a tip of the drill bit holding spot, drill, #2 square recessed head bolts from McFeelys.com, inside hole larger to accommodate nut diameter without deforming dual layer gapped aluminum construction, nylon locking nuts, reapply fabric over nuts on inside with rubber cement.

The half shells of this case have a layered seam and the addition of these latches makes for a SOLID case period. Now the trouble is I don’t want to put too much in it because I don’t want it to break at the lower hinge. The solution is to freely disseminate more information from it such as thisJ

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

Variable Height Constant Level Adjustable Level Speed Bag

Variable Height Constant Level Speed Bag Platform

This speed bag platform was cut by tangent fixed center lathe method from plywood.

The hinged and counterweighted mechanism I designed allows it to be lowered and raised via a hand cranked winch without changing it horizontally level plane.

The hinging structure is made from recycled angle iron from bed frames. I found some hardwood on Craigs list that was part of a dresser and snapped this up too.

Bed frame angle iron is the dog bone for the mechanically minded and enterprising man. An inventor must have his dog bone bed frame angle iron or he isn’t happy at all.

No matter what bad things might be said of boxing as a sport, the speed bag is by the best way to achieve hand eye coordination. Hand eye coordination is the key to success in a majority of sports.

When making new things strive to make them strong and durable. Focus on strength of design and materials. Balance also played a more central role in this design.

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

Garage Propeller Ceiling Fan

Garage Propeller Ceiling Fan

This ceiling fan was made from disparate pieces up. The motor was indeed a surplus ceiling fan motor purchased from Surplus.com for about 5 dollars.

The fan blades were cut from ¼” plywood and painted to look like the propeller of a Tiger Shark fighter plane. I used to like to build model planes when I was a boy.

The tips of the propeller glow in the dark. And when it spins it has a “Spencer’s” effect, they glow in the dark.

The fan blade holders were purchased at Menards and the motor housing carefully drilled and tapped with threads to accommodate the fan bladed holders.

It helps circulate the air in the garage on hot summer days and dry painted things quicker. As it is located above the workbench is disperses dust and fumes away from the head, to help make work go safer.

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

Watch Clock Fan

Watch Clock Fan

This old fan was refitted with a new motor of the appropriate RPM’s from SurplusCenter.com. It was around Halloween and the blades were painted black and orange. This also helps to judge its RPM’s to see how it is “doing”.

The top is a brake drum that gives it ballast making it look abstractly like a pocket watch. That is the effect I was going for pocket watch look and ballast.

They do not make these the same today with the strong metal fan blade and the protective metal cage, if they did they would be very expensive.

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

A PICTURE WINDOW PICTURE

Window Frames as Pictures Frames 04 18 2010

“A PICTURE WINDOW PICTURE”

If you upgrade to energy efficient windows you can take the old aluminum framed screens and windows and recycle them for the aluminum. You won’t get as much as a can because they have some lead content, maybe a third of the price per pound of a can. I didn’t know of the lead content when I made these, but am always careful when working with materials.

Or you can make picture frames like I did. A PICTURE WINDOW PICTURE? When you look at these it is as if you are looking out a window to your favorite place.

Here are the rough instructions how these are made.

1. Clean the surface of aluminum to remove aluminum oxide. Use cleaner, emery cloth, sandpapers, dish soap in an iterative process and wipe with vinegar to prep for painting.

2. Determine rough dimensions of frame. Remember that the part of the triangle that forms the corner on the end of a 45 degree miter must be added to the perimeter piece length so that the frame is not too small. Miter cut the ends if you want to you can prime and paint now. You can always touch up later.

3. Find some ¼” flat corner brackets made of metal or ask your local Ace Hardware store guy that repairs screens if he has any of the internal corner fasteners. I didn’t do this but it would make the process easier if you had a dedicating fitting. If you use the flat brackets the fitting isn’t easy, but nothing worth doing will ever be. Key holes can be drilled and thread tapped to fit set screws on the backsides of the corners. You may need to do some filing and metalworking to fit this together strongly, and once in tight dimensional form solidify the joints with glue, I use Eco Glue.

4. Sometimes you need to put the glass in first. Some hardware stores will cut it for you. Lowes cut my used old glass for me. I don’t know what they charged but I was also buying other pieces of new glass from them and having them cut to approximately 18” x 24” plus at least 3/16” or more on two perpendicular sides to allow so it doesn’t fall through the center of the frame. This is very tricky to fit right when making own frames. Sometimes with wood you just take a router with bearing bit to make the opening bigger sometimes you use a razor sharp chisel, etc. Tool choice is a matter of craftsmanship and sometimes it is fun to use the tool that is harder to work with.

5. Prime and paint.

6. Insert glass. Set in place with some nontoxic clear silicone sealant. I prefer “Brand” because it has the least smell.

7. Put your favorite picture in it and back by cardboard etc.

8. Telling you the fittings you need to make to hang this flush with the wall will be omitted. The part of securing this will be left up to you. As it will allow you to develop your own judgment as to what is strong and weak.

And there you have it, “A PICTURE WINDOW PICTURE”, the concept ought to provide much food for thought in terms of symbolism. Can we make our urban settings more natural, more relaxing and suitable for us as human beings? Okay you think of it the way you want.

A PICTURE WINDOW PICTURE by,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

How I First Met Pansy

How I First Met Pansy 03 20 2010

When I first met Pansy she was standing outside on the curb of a Lutheran Church at Henry Clay and Marlborough Dr. I drove past her once and I could not let her go to the dump. There was a residue on her that made me think she was made to stand outside or in a bathroom there for long times and for a long time because of this I stored her in a neglected place and quite frankly often regretted her. But I kept telling myself she has nice petals and a strong halo.

So one day I cleaned her up and gave her a new brake shoe from a 1998 Buick LeSabre. To give her more soul I added a front rotor under that. I also was cordial and gave her a new stem from a fluorescent lamp suffering from a burnt out computer chip.

In addition to that I gussied her up with a new motor of the apropro RPM’s from a discount online surplus house.

Then I put brown paint on her shoes for root polish; some vibrant green for her stem and yellow makeup (Rustoleum Oil Based Paint) for her petals that were to provide me with a gentle breeze.

I mended her together with safety and care and she stand stout. Sometimes when I’m working in my shop and need a breeze I remember my Pansy is always by my side. I flip her new electric ‘infusium’ switch and bring her to life for a freshened breath of air.

My Pansy is always by my side.

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

Easy Pour Gas Nozzle

Easy Pour Gas Nozzle 02 25 2010

I have never seen a gas nozzle for a portable gas tank that I liked yet. So this inspired me to make something better. Two factors lead to this unique design.

1. At the end of fall I had a portable marine gas tank full of gas. It would go to waste over the winter and could be used in the snow blower.

2. Marine gas tank fittings are usually pretty leak proof.

The nozzle I have created can be attached to the fitting on the gas line of an Evinrude marine gas tank. Everything is made, strong, tight and leakproof.

Using this one first you open the vent on the gas tank to relieve the pressure. Then you hold the end of the line up and attach the nozzle. You then raise and place the gas tank a little higher than the outdoor power equipment you are filling. Put the nozzle in the filling tank. And squeeze the "Lemon" on your line to get the gas flowing. When coming to the top you can lower the boat motor tank to stop the flow and/or raise the nozzle from the tank.

My method does not spill a drop. When you are done all gas is drained back into the tank via gravity as you hold the nozzle higher. Disconnect the nozzle and put it on a pegboard rack in your garage until next time.

The marine gas line fitting on the end of the line seals itself via a spring ball valve.

My device is made from a brass lamp arm and an Evinrude male gas line fitting, Permatex, washers and scrap bolt as a plug. Some drilling to proper hole size and threading with a tap and die was needed. Tap and dies are tools used to put threads on bolts and nuts. A set goes for as little as fifteen dollars at a discount hardware store. They come in standard and metric thread sizes and are hours of fun. It is an art to learn how to use them and fun to try.

You can make your nozzle out of off the shelf parts from the plumbing, hardware and maybe electrical section of your hardware store if you don't get chased out of the store first for asking for the parts to make such a thing- “What do you want to make that for, that will never work." Think of yourself as Tuco the optimizer from the Movie "The Good, The Bad and The Ugly."

The unique part was the Evinrude fitting. I think I purchased it from SportsmansGuide.com for around five dollars. The label reads Sierra 18-8063, www.teleflexmarine.com 2530.

I thought about putting a closing valve on my nozzle but then when it is taken off the line to seal the line there would be pressure and some leakage issues.

I worked at a gas station during college and know to minimize exposure to gasoline and its fumes. You will see me filling my car up with a cotton ball stuck in each nostril.

This is another idea good for the environment and you.

God Bless,

Thomas Paul Murphy

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

Washing Machine Flower Pot

This flower pot is basically just the inside bin of a discarded washing machine painted with that two color fleck spray paint. I found it in the discount isle of Wal-Mart and bought two cans of it. I did line the pot with a heavier clear plastic painter’s tarp or two before filling it with dirt so that it would not become a beehive instead. I grew Tobacco in it that I never smoked. I don’t smoke. I don’t even like the smell of cigarette smoke. And I applaud the 2010 public smoking ban in Wisconsin. But every once in awhile the smell of a Cigar I do like, it is of higher quality. Once a year, and then I get a sinus infection and swear it off completely. I don’t know why I grew the Tobacco. But it grew well and tall and it was a pretty green plant. And I broke off a little one inch square piece of it and put it in a coffee can and lit it. It smelled very good and I did indeed get a sinus infection. And I will indeed grow Tobacco in this pot again. That’s all there is to it. I suppose I could grow something else in it, some type of vegetable or mint or something.

My point being is the pot was made to stand up to water, and will not crack. When I tore apart the washing machine it had that ceramic/enameled industrial coating on it. Why put it in a landfill, it will last forever. Where I put the dirt in it is where it is staying too because it is heavy and stubborn to grass friction.

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

How I made a concrete Umbrella Stand

How I made a concrete Umbrella Stand

A concrete umbrella stand that you can make will be much heavier and therefore stable than what you can buy. This inherently increases its safety factor.

Materials: Inconclusively Determined

1. Enough bags of concrete to fill a bushel basket. Follow directions on bag and acquired skill acquired from mixing it as you mix it.

2. An old galvanized bushel basket you consider disposable

3. Cardboard to line it. If you tape enough cleanly around the sides and bottom you may be able to get the form out without cutting that bushel basket to oyster halves. I only made one of these and it lasts forever.

4. Some galvanized or treated chicken wire to reinforce and hold the concrete together. The analogous term in the construction industry when they build sky scrapers is rebar. When you place this in your form none of it can be exposed to the surfaces of the object otherwise you will get rust veins that run through and weaken your structure.

5. I put a coat of oil based paint around it so that it doesn’t chalk away. It is ok to use the “Its Best to Use it up Theory” and use old oil based house paint you might have around the house, and add some paint oil to it if you like.

6. You will need a rightly an properly sized hollow cylinder to run the height of the stand. The internal diameter of this should fit the external diameter of you Umbrella pole or any one you plan to buy. You need to stuff this shut with newspaper and cardboard and vertically fix it while the concrete sets to that it is straight. I used an old plastic table leg too long. This allowed for an easier up and down straight alignment. Picture a straw in a soda cup. I whizzed off the end long after it dried.

As you delight in your endeavor you might inspire the neighbor lady into adding hydraulic cement to the outside of a flower pot and adding thematically derived cracked pieces of her China Wear to the outside of it. Consider it an imitation is a form of flattery complement.

If you get good and do not get lung disease from the concrete dust or an eye infection you can make you can make different concrete forming molds, square and rectangular ones from framing built of wood and sink appropriately threaded rod studs for affixing auxiliary devices or stands. Tape the threaded rod ends to be above the concrete so that they will be utilizable and not gummed solid and needing of hard cleaning.

This can be made into an art form whereby you can express yourself creatively for display. “The sky is the limit.”

Copyright 2010 Thomas Paul Murphy

PORTABLE ELECTRIC SWITCHABLE OUTLET

How I made a portable electric switchable outlet (PESO)

Once start reading, all must be read.

The benefits of having one of these devices are enormous in terms of tool safety. It is essentially the same as an outlet strip but made out of metal not plastic and it doesn’t have surge protection. For instance you can turn all devices off at once such as dust collector and table saw. In some situations you cannot reach the plug at the wall outlet before havoc has gone too far. Also in the case of electric motor failure of your tool device you do not want to take the time to get electrocuted to turn it off at the machine itself. Commercial outlet strips have a high plastic content prone to failure and work down time. And the switches on these are hard to access and turn on and off. I don’t know if you ever noticed but turning off a table saw requires you to lean or orientate your body more so in the direction of that spinning blade. This read like a when we last left Batman and Robin they were…..episode. As far as whether these are up to code, I feel they are safer because they are more reliable, reduce down time because the more durable parts are stocked at local hardware store. And the switch is a little less ambiguous.

None of these problems come with PESO.

I used the proper screw in box wire clamp for the one with the orange cord. I also added a GCFI outlet protection to the one on the right because I had an extra one; it may not protect against a frayed extension cord to the unit but may provide added protection if you have not gone to the code required GFCI outlets in your garage.

I used matched components and wire to 15 amps but if my breaker was 20 amps I would have bought that switch, outlet and wire. I followed the wiring directions and diagrams of the outlet and switch. And made a picture of how it would all be connected first. This was helpful to me. The outlet I bought with a switch in an outlet position or as the other outlet it is a needed a careful break of the tab that connects the outlet to the incorporated switch before I ran the hot from switch to GFCI outlet to switch outlet. This GFCI was by no means a substitute for GFCI outlets in my building structures. And I do not rely on it as such because the wire to the line from here will always remain a source of concern. Does the one with the GFCI outlet in this position look safer to you? There is still current to the box, if you used this in standing water YOU WOULD STILL GET ELECTROCUTED. However if your power drill or tool overheated and there was a “BURNOUT SHORT” in the tool you would be protected.
I used a deep square box because it sits more balanced and stout and checked the contraption with a GFCI outlet tester before committing to use.

A word about electrical wiring: Wires come in different gauges. Common household gauges are 10 gauge, 12gauge and 14 gauge. Always match grade and size to components and end use or load. The lower number the thicker the gauge and the safer the wire. To thick a gauge is hard to bend and screw onto some terminals without stripping them. But it is better to go thicker. When using wiring terminals “candy cane” your wiring ends so that the end of the wire flows clockwise or the same way you tighten the wire. When I was a boy I watched an electrician in our house and when using wire twist on connecters he would use electrical tape over the connector to wire in the same direction the connector was tightened in. I have found this a good procedure to follow. When you work on a house circuit to replace an outlet always turn off the circuit breaker to the circuit the outlet is on and use an electric current detector to see if current is still present. You may also use the inexpensive connector to determine which of two wires are live. When fixing an extension cord end the white wire goes to the silver screw, the black to the brass colored screw and the green or bare copper wire in outlets to the green colored screw. Always make sure and take special effort that your ground connection is the best connection i.e. won’t loosen up easy or capable of being jarred loose. In terms of GFCI outlets they are now required by code in many parts of your house. Terms relevant to them are line and load. Line is the source of power your i.e. both your circuit panel box, and the line to the electric wire on the telephone pole in your backyard. Load is the where the power is consumed i.e. power drill, your furnace, toaster. When putting in GFCI outlets you only need to put one in a circuit before that wire strings to other outlets. And it will protect all the outlets on the load side or “underneath” it. GFCI’s should always be tested with the $7 dollar tester available at your local hardware store. Outlets in your kitchen maybe 20amp so you may need 20 amp GFCI outlets for these.
I had the utility company come to our house and tighten all connections in the breaker panel and behind the meter. These connections as well as those in lamp fixtures and outlets in your house can become loose over time, which is dangerous. i.e. Because a “thinner” connection means possible overheating and a source of fire. And a lose wire such as neutral or ground can be an unseen source of electrocution, which could happen just by changing a light bulb. The lineman had rubber electricians gloves on that must have been ½” thick, I forget what the volt rating was on them but it was high.

Disclaimer: This article is meant to be thought provoking and lead you to a more informed conversation with your electrician. Do not try this for yourself! You probably do not have the competence to do this! I make no warranty to the safety of your work or competence. You are responsible for your own safety and the safety of those around you at all times in life. Never exceed your own competence without doing so using scientifically proven safety protocols and methods, which you should have working knowledge of before having an aspiration. An inventor should always expect catastrophic failure and plan to compensate for it; that is the nature of invention.

Copyright 2009 THOMAS PAUL MURPHY